## Brother MFC-260C Printer Restauration
**Right to Repair / Modding**
In this documentation we will repaint a printer,
[fix some broken parts](https://www.ifixit.com/)
and make old hardware usable again. You can
live in a house for 20 years without repairing the roof,
painting the walls or maintaining the garden. However,
this reduces your property and you tend to be careless.
Even if the printer may not be resold, a complete overhaul
will not only increase its value but also extend its
life. This in turn protects the environment because less
has to be returned to the material cycle. You can
also adapt the design a little to your own needs and
thus relearn or train certain techniques.
Our consumer behaviour has changed significantly in recent
years. We buy new things more often (I have observed this
with myself once) than to repair old ones. Why [repair](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronics_right_to_repair) a
printer when a new one only costs 50€? In addition, there is
the industry and the suppliers who have adapted to this
approach. Maybe they trained the customer to do the same. In
any case, [hardware is rotten and cumbersome](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planned_obsolescence) to repair.
already in the vanguard to install its computers as cumbersome
as possible. This is not only bad for the environment, but in no
way conserves our resources.
If we don't want to change our behaviour, we should at
least think about it, because it won't last forever. Natural
resources are finite and when they run out we have to look
for a solution. My advice is to look for a solution now. At
the moment we have enough, so we can do research in peace and
do not have to accept emergency solutions that have been
developed under stress.
The main component of this documentation is the
[Brother MFC260C printer](http://support.brother.com/g/b/manualtop.aspx?c=as_ot&lang=en&prod=mfc260c_eu_as).
In addition, special materials are required
that require a larger investment. Among them e.g. the filler and the
Although these are not priceless costs, you have to pay
attention to the small amounts.
Plasto from Revell](https://www.revell.de/produkte/farben-kleber-co/sonstiges-zubehoer/id/39607.html)
as filler. Unfortunately, this is only suitable for
small areas in model making and not for filling large holes. So I
prefer to recommend a different filler for this project.
Superglue from a generic provider. I always use no name products
because they always stick to the cap quite quickly anyway and you
can't use the tubes anymore.
I use the
[masking tape from Tamiya](https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/paints-finishes-60/finishing-supplies-62000/masking-tape-refill-18mm-87035)
because I have had the best experiences with it so far and it is not too expensive in Germany.
+ Spray paint (black)
+ Latex gloves
+ Safety goggles
+ Brother MFC260C printer
+ Instant glue
+ Sanding paper (80/100/400)
+ Large garbage bag
+ Tamiya Masking Tape, Refill, 18mm, 18m.
+ Glass cleaner
+ Cleaning wipe
+ Cotton swabs
**Filler:** May cause drowsiness and dizziness. Liquid
and steam are highly flammable. If medical advice is required,
have packaging or label ready. Keep out of the reach of children.
Keep away from heat, sparks, open flames, hot surfaces. No smoking.
IF TOUCHED WITH SKIN (or hair): Wash skin with water, shower.
Disposal according to regulations.
**Spray Paint:** Danger! H222-H229 Extremely flammable
aerosol. Pressurised container: May burst if heated. H319 Causes
serious eye irritation. H336 May cause drowsiness or dizziness.
During preparation, the multifunctional device is examined in
more detail. To check where exactly there are damaged areas, all
removable cables and parts without screwing are to be cut off. The
USB and power cables are disconnected from the device and the cover
is then removed. We look whether we discover small cracks or something
similar. All components that we can remove from the main unit are
removed. Even if this means a little more work at the beginning, we
can save this time in the end. We also take a close look at all the
components and make a rough plan in our heads of how we will process the
parts. If you can't remember that, you'd better take notes.
**Fill places with filler**
The filler is applied to the marked areas and requires a drying
time of 24 hours. One should not do without latex gloves and pay attention
to a well ventilated working environment. Remove dust and grease beforehand
with cleaning agent and a cloth. We work as cleanly and quickly as possible.
With small cracks I sometimes use a brush to remove the dust. Care should be
taken not to apply the putty on the skin or clothing. If it is possible, you
can place the filled components on a window in the sun. There they dry faster
and the vapours are better removed. When we have finished filling, we turn
to the front that we have to disassemble.
**Disassembling the control panel**
The main front of the control panel is easy to solve when the
tricks are known. First loosen the three screws at the top edge and
store them. The control panel can then be removed in a few easy steps.
The two cables are only plugged in and no special tools are required.
The rubber sensors are washed with soap and water. Plastic parts rather
with glass cleaner, cotton swabs and cloth.
**Paint the control panel**
In the next steps we will repaint the control panel. Nothing has
to be taped off, because we have removed all parts according to the
pictures above. If we spray, we only do it outside or in a very well
ventilated workshop. We open all windows so that rooms are well ventilated.
If you already have problems with breathing, use a respiratory protection
mask as a precaution. These can be bought in a good paint shop. In order
to spray all sides, we will place the component on rods, which in turn are
stuck into foam. We put on the latex gloves, because spray paint is very
difficult to get off the skin.
**Disassemble and paint front parts**
The front parts are fastened with three screws (and a small extra
screw on the left side). These are to be turned off. A slotted screwdriver
is required to assist with the flap of the ink cartridge. The middle section
has no screws and is released from the printer with a powerful jerk. The left
flap is pulled down. All parts must be replaced after painting.
After everything is varnished and dried, we reassemble everything. This can
take some time and you should keep to the order of the pictures. Sometimes it
can get a little complicated, but we don't get impatient and start breaking or
forcibly inserting components. If we work like this, we just ruin our hard work
and everything was for nothing. If something doesn't work, in many cases just
help to take a break. For example, you can go for a walk or buy an ice cream in
the supermarket. Then fresh air comes back to the brain and sometimes you find
the solution to the problem all by yourself.
**Disassemble the cover and paint the paper feed holder**
We remove the scanner plate and then the individual parts. Then unscrew the
screw in the middle and put it aside. Remove the two paper feed holders from the
cover (as shown in the photo). Whenever we remove parts from a technical device,
we do this without breaking or pressing hard. Most parts break down. If something
does not want to go off, we look first in the Internet whether we do not find a
manual. In most cases this is already explained there.
**Sanding and pre-painting the lid**
First we look at the video
[Spray Paint Finish Process: Fantastic Surface technique for Prototypes Models & Mock ups](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Z-cBnH79J4)
of Eric Strebel.
I should have done that before, but I didn't know the video yet. This can save you a
lot of mistakes and time. The lid is sanded in the first round, then pre-painted and
sanded again. In the best case, this is repeated at least ten times. Grinding is a hard
work that is very difficult to automate. Untidy areas and small holes have to be filled
again and then sanded again...and again, and again.
**Masking the lid**
In order to paint the lid without smearing the rest of the printer
with paint, it is dressed in a large garbage bag. So that the lid does
not rest on the bag and perhaps covers small areas, you can make two paper
cuddles and use them to jack up the lid. The paint must dry for at least 24
hours. If necessary, a repainting is set. Cover the paper rolls and other
fine areas with masking tape.
Overall it was a pretty interesting project and I learned a lot. Revell
putty is not suitable for large holes and damaged areas, but for small
areas, cracks, etc. I tried Belton and Montana on the spray cans. Belton was
a little better. But I'm not sure if it was the heat or the plastic. Anyway,
both big places I filled up didn't get neat enough. For a private project you
can get over it, a commissioned work is not to be given in such a way.
Especially during the grinding process I had a lot of difficulties, because
it takes a lot of practice and apparently you can do quite a lot wrong. I also
couldn't remove all the small components from the lid or even unscrew it from
the printer because everything was wired. Manufacturers don't make it very easy
to repair the hardware yourself.