In this documentation we will repaint a printer, fix some broken parts and make old hardware usable again. You can live in a house for 20 years without repairing the roof, painting the walls or maintaining the garden. However, this reduces your property and you tend to be careless. Even if the printer may not be resold, a complete overhaul will not only increase its value but also extend its life. This in turn protects the environment because less electrical waste has to be returned to the material cycle. You can also adapt the design a little to your own needs and thus relearn or train certain techniques.
Our consumer behaviour has changed significantly in recent years. We buy new things more often (I have observed this with myself once) than to repair old ones. Why repair a printer when a new one only costs 50€? In addition, there is the industry and the suppliers who have adapted to this approach. Maybe they trained the customer to do the same. In any case, hardware is rotten and cumbersome to repair. Apple is already in the vanguard to install its computers as cumbersome as possible. This is not only bad for the environment, but in no way conserves our resources.
If we don't want to change our behaviour, we should at least think about it, because it won't last forever. Natural resources are finite and when they run out we have to look for a solution. My advice is to look for a solution now. At the moment we have enough, so we can do research in peace and do not have to accept emergency solutions that have been developed under stress.
The main component of this documentation is the Brother MFC260C printer. In addition, special materials are required that require a larger investment. Among them e.g. the filler and the spray paint. Although these are not priceless costs, you have to pay attention to the small amounts.
I used Plasto from Revell as filler. Unfortunately, this is only suitable for small areas in model making and not for filling large holes. So I prefer to recommend a different filler for this project.
Superglue from a generic provider. I always use no name products because they always stick to the cap quite quickly anyway and you can't use the tubes anymore.
I use the masking tape from Tamiya because I have had the best experiences with it so far and it is not too expensive in Germany.
Filler: May cause drowsiness and dizziness. Liquid and steam are highly flammable. If medical advice is required, have packaging or label ready. Keep out of the reach of children. Keep away from heat, sparks, open flames, hot surfaces. No smoking. IF TOUCHED WITH SKIN (or hair): Wash skin with water, shower. Disposal according to regulations.
Spray Paint: Danger! H222-H229 Extremely flammable aerosol. Pressurised container: May burst if heated. H319 Causes serious eye irritation. H336 May cause drowsiness or dizziness.
During preparation, the multifunctional device is examined in more detail. To check where exactly there are damaged areas, all removable cables and parts without screwing are to be cut off. The USB and power cables are disconnected from the device and the cover is then removed. We look whether we discover small cracks or something similar. All components that we can remove from the main unit are removed. Even if this means a little more work at the beginning, we can save this time in the end. We also take a close look at all the components and make a rough plan in our heads of how we will process the parts. If you can't remember that, you'd better take notes.
Fill places with filler
The filler is applied to the marked areas and requires a drying time of 24 hours. One should not do without latex gloves and pay attention to a well ventilated working environment. Remove dust and grease beforehand with cleaning agent and a cloth. We work as cleanly and quickly as possible. With small cracks I sometimes use a brush to remove the dust. Care should be taken not to apply the putty on the skin or clothing. If it is possible, you can place the filled components on a window in the sun. There they dry faster and the vapours are better removed. When we have finished filling, we turn to the front that we have to disassemble.
Disassembling the control panel
The main front of the control panel is easy to solve when the tricks are known. First loosen the three screws at the top edge and store them. The control panel can then be removed in a few easy steps. The two cables are only plugged in and no special tools are required. The rubber sensors are washed with soap and water. Plastic parts rather with glass cleaner, cotton swabs and cloth.
Paint the control panel
In the next steps we will repaint the control panel. Nothing has to be taped off, because we have removed all parts according to the pictures above. If we spray, we only do it outside or in a very well ventilated workshop. We open all windows so that rooms are well ventilated. If you already have problems with breathing, use a respiratory protection mask as a precaution. These can be bought in a good paint shop. In order to spray all sides, we will place the component on rods, which in turn are stuck into foam. We put on the latex gloves, because spray paint is very difficult to get off the skin.
Disassemble and paint front parts
The front parts are fastened with three screws (and a small extra screw on the left side). These are to be turned off. A slotted screwdriver is required to assist with the flap of the ink cartridge. The middle section has no screws and is released from the printer with a powerful jerk. The left flap is pulled down. All parts must be replaced after painting.
After everything is varnished and dried, we reassemble everything. This can take some time and you should keep to the order of the pictures. Sometimes it can get a little complicated, but we don't get impatient and start breaking or forcibly inserting components. If we work like this, we just ruin our hard work and everything was for nothing. If something doesn't work, in many cases just help to take a break. For example, you can go for a walk or buy an ice cream in the supermarket. Then fresh air comes back to the brain and sometimes you find the solution to the problem all by yourself.
Disassemble the cover and paint the paper feed holder
We remove the scanner plate and then the individual parts. Then unscrew the screw in the middle and put it aside. Remove the two paper feed holders from the cover (as shown in the photo). Whenever we remove parts from a technical device, we do this without breaking or pressing hard. Most parts break down. If something does not want to go off, we look first in the Internet whether we do not find a manual. In most cases this is already explained there.
Sanding and pre-painting the lid
First we look at the video Spray Paint Finish Process: Fantastic Surface technique for Prototypes Models & Mock ups of Eric Strebel. I should have done that before, but I didn't know the video yet. This can save you a lot of mistakes and time. The lid is sanded in the first round, then pre-painted and sanded again. In the best case, this is repeated at least ten times. Grinding is a hard work that is very difficult to automate. Untidy areas and small holes have to be filled again and then sanded again...and again, and again.
Masking the lid
In order to paint the lid without smearing the rest of the printer with paint, it is dressed in a large garbage bag. So that the lid does not rest on the bag and perhaps covers small areas, you can make two paper cuddles and use them to jack up the lid. The paint must dry for at least 24 hours. If necessary, a repainting is set. Cover the paper rolls and other fine areas with masking tape.
Overall it was a pretty interesting project and I learned a lot. Revell putty is not suitable for large holes and damaged areas, but for small areas, cracks, etc. I tried Belton and Montana on the spray cans. Belton was a little better. But I'm not sure if it was the heat or the plastic. Anyway, both big places I filled up didn't get neat enough. For a private project you can get over it, a commissioned work is not to be given in such a way. Especially during the grinding process I had a lot of difficulties, because it takes a lot of practice and apparently you can do quite a lot wrong. I also couldn't remove all the small components from the lid or even unscrew it from the printer because everything was wired. Manufacturers don't make it very easy to repair the hardware yourself.
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